Narai-juku is a post town I’ve visited several times before. While big post towns on the Nakasendo like Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku are charming, Narai-juku is definitely one of my favorites. This time, after hiking over Torii Pass from the adjacent Yabuhara-juku, I feel like my perspective on it has shifted a little.
As you cross the pass and enter Narai-juku, the first thing you see is Chinja Shrine, and further along is this Kosatsuba. Here, bakufu (shogunate) laws and various information were posted, and its placement at this busy entrance to Narai-juku from the Kyoto side really makes sense after having walked over the pass.
And after walking 6 kilometers over Torii Pass from Yabuhara-juku, what I truly felt in relation to that distance was the sheer size of Narai-juku. It stretches for almost a kilometer from end to end, and because the town curves slightly, you feel its length, and since you can’t see the end of the post town, it really emphasizes its grand scale. Strolling leisurely through the charming streets, I could easily spend as much time here as I did walking over the pass.
The second-floor eaves of the buildings, jutting out towards the street, are also distinctive, and I feel that these continuous buildings really create the unique atmosphere of this post town.
Overall, Narai-juku has become a tourist destination with many souvenir shops lining the streets, but there are still many places that retain their old-world charm and are not overly decorated, and I also feel there are fewer tourists compared to Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, which is why I personally really love Narai-juku.
There were a few water springs along the path coming over Torii Pass, but Narai-juku itself has six water springs, flowing with incredibly cold water. I imagine it’s probably safe to drink as is, but since there was a sign advising boiling it just in case, I just settled for cooling my face and arms.
Although I’ve visited several post towns on the Nakasendo a few times, I haven’t yet stayed at a hatago (traditional inn), so someday I’d love to stay in a hatago and enjoy the evening atmosphere and a peaceful morning stroll.
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