Can you see Mt. Ena from Tsumago-juku?
I climbed the beautiful Mt. Ena, lush with fresh greenery, but there was hardly any view during the climb. The summit and its shape were obscured by trees, so I never really got to see what kind of mountain I was climbing. It felt a bit unsatisfying, you know? So, I thought, maybe I can see the whole of Mt. Ena from nearby Tsumago-juku or Magome-juku? That’s why I made a little detour to Tsumago-juku.
Unchanging Beautiful Townscape
I’d been to Tsumago-juku almost 20 years ago, and I was quite surprised that the townscape hadn’t changed at all – the scenes I remembered from back then just flooded back to me!
One thing I did notice was a bit different from 20 years ago was the significant number of foreign tourists. Still, it wasn’t overflowing with people, so it was nice and relaxing to enjoy a stroll.
Last time I visited this area, I stayed at a now-defunct hidden hot spring called Haizawa Kosen, so I didn’t pay much attention, but it seems there are quite a few inns along this old post road. I think staying at a place like this could be really appealing, especially for international visitors.
The scenery around here is definitely etched in my memory. I bet that bent tree on the right in the second photo, and the Matsushiroya sign in the third photo, are just as they used to be.
The way flowers and cats blend into the scenery, creating such a lovely atmosphere, is truly unique to Tsumago-juku.
The Charm of Simple, Rustic Flavors
Since it was a post-hike stroll, I was pretty tired and hungry, so I headed to a shop selling oyaki. The filling of the thoroughly steamed oyaki was dried daikon radish. I thought it was a bit unusual, but it was incredibly delicious! It’s nice to grab one to go and munch on while walking, but since the sun was strong and I was tired that day, I decided to eat inside. I was so happy when they served me tea and pickles with it.
I mentioned that the townscape itself hasn’t changed, but it seems there have been a few shifts in the shops, and this is one of them. What an interesting display!
Oh, that reminds me, I remembered eating Kurikinton in Tsumago-juku before, so I felt nostalgic and bought some. I also got another Japanese sweet, a dried persimmon filled with Kurikinton. Both were exquisite! The dried persimmon sweet, in particular, was unbelievably delicious with its sticky texture and the soft, fluffy texture of the Kurikinton enjoyed simultaneously, and that elegant, natural sweetness was just irresistible. It’s a shame they don’t last long, so I couldn’t buy many, but I definitely want to eat them again.
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