It’s been over 10 years since I started visiting Higashikawa, Hokkaido. Every year, even in winter, there are these favorite places where I feel like I can’t properly wrap up the year without eating there. I wanted to write a bit about them. While I wouldn’t call myself a “local regular,” it’s a great feeling to have spots where the staff remembers our faces and we look forward to visiting as a family.
Teuchi Soba Maru
“Teuchi Soba Maru” is located in the town of Higashikagura, which is home to Asahikawa Airport. I’ve been coming here every time I visit Higashikawa ever since a friend I met on my first trip told me about it. In winter, I always struggle to choose between the Herring Soba, Kamo Nanban, Mushroom Soba, or the aromatic Spicy Herring Soba. In summer, I agonize over the refreshing Sudachi Soba, Hebesu Soba (using citrus from Miyazaki), or the Tomato Soba. The owner once mentioned the difficulty of making such simple noodles, but they are also constantly exploring new flavors—I was really surprised by the unique tastes of the Tomato and Spicy Herring Soba when they first debuted.
This winter, I went with the Kamo Nanban for that New Year’s Eve vibe. The duck was surprisingly tender, and the sweetness of the grilled green onions really stood out. It has that consistent, gentle deliciousness that always makes me feel at home during this cold season. Their baked goods like scones are also delicious and highly recommended.
Izakaya Rishiri
“Izakaya Rishiri” is right in the center of Higashikawa. It’s a place I always visit with local friends or friends visiting from Ishigaki. Everything they serve is incredible, and it’s a huge hit with the kids too. Even my parents were amazed by how good the food was when I brought them along once.
In winter, the sashimi platter is a must, and the seasonal “Madachi” (cod milt) is exceptionally good. Other staples that are always great include the Tako Zangi (fried octopus), the classic potato salad, and the onigiri made with Higashikawa’s delicious rice. It’s best to go with a big group and order a variety of things, like the large grilled Hokke or the deep-fried tofu from the local tofu shop.
Naturally, the drinks are great too. I don’t usually drink much sake, but here I occasionally treat myself to a glass. Just writing this makes me want to go back! Haha.
Brown Rice Onigiri Chamise
My family members, who aren’t usually huge rice eaters, absolutely love the onigiri from “Genmai Onigiri Chamise,” so we visit multiple times during our stay. It must be the rice grown with Asahidake’s spring water and cooked with that same delicious water that makes the difference…
The varieties seem to change with the season, but for brown rice, I’ve seen options like “Beef Shigure-ni,” “Tarako Butter,” “Yamawasabi Cheese,” “Koji Chicken,” “Sockeye Salmon,” “Edamame and Kombu,” “Nuka-nishin (Rice Bran Herring),” and “Meat Miso.” While I usually go for brown rice, on this day I tried a new white rice onigiri: “Dashimaki Egg and Nori Cooked Rice.” It was a gentle and very delicious rice ball.
Since they open relatively early, it’s pure bliss to buy some onigiri before heading out for a quick hike up Mt. Asahidake and eating them along the way.
Susanta Kitchen
Introduced by a friend living in Higashikawa, “Susanta Kitchen” is a Sri Lankan curry shop that my whole family became huge fans of. There’s a cute cat there too, which is always a bonus. Haha.
The menu basically offers a 2-curry or 3-curry set. You combine a main (Chicken, Keema, Pork, or Shrimp) with vegetable curries that change daily, like radish or pumpkin. The veggie curry that day was pumpkin, my favorite. Susanta explained that aging the pumpkin makes it sticky and intensely sweet, and he was right—it was amazing. The radish curry also highlights the natural sweetness of the vegetable; if you’re trying it for the first time, you’ll probably be quite surprised. While the veggie curries are creamy and sweet, the chicken or shrimp ones are quite spicy. Mixing them as you eat provides a fantastic variety of flavors.
Even though I only visit about once a year, Susanta remembers me and will ask things like, “Where are your kids today?” in a friendly way. It’s a place with many regulars, and I’m sure many people find themselves stopping by just for that one-of-a-kind taste and the bright, welcoming atmosphere created by Susanta and his wife.
Kaiten Sushi Triton
Kaiten Sushi Triton is a place where you can get delicious sushi for a great price, but it’s always so crowded that getting a seat is a struggle. Since I was alone this winter, I waited in line and ate at the counter, but when I’m with my family, we usually do takeout. For takeout at Triton, you’re shown to a special seat where you order, they bring the plates out, and then you pack them into takeout containers yourself. It’s perfect because you can get exactly what you want.
Unfortunately, because of the time I went, many of the items were already sold out, but I still managed to stuff myself with over 20 pieces and left very satisfied.
Biei Farm (Biei Grazing Dairy Farm)
Biei Farm has become quite a famous spot now, but when a friend first told me about it, it was a “hidden gem” and wasn’t even open year-round. It’s become quite a tourist destination now, and summer can be overwhelming with crowds, but the soft-serve ice cream, cheese, and drinkable yogurt are as good as ever. The scenery each season is also stunning, so it remains one of the places I visit often when I’m in Higashikawa.
boulangerie mawarimichi
It’s a bit away from Higashikawa, but the bread at “boulangerie mawarimichi” in Toma is also fantastic. It’s become a tradition for me to drive out early in the morning, buy some delicious bread, and bring it back to our “house” (the place we always stay has started to feel like home, haha) to enjoy leisurely with the family. Last summer, I was shocked to meet a customer who had driven 3 hours from Chitose just to buy bread here—but now, I totally get it.
However, this winter I forgot to check their winter holiday schedule and unfortunately missed out. Oops. Haha.
Bonus Round
Since Higashikawa is so close to Asahikawa, Asahikawa ramen is also a must-try. Baikoken opened in the Asahikawa Airport food court a while back, so I used to stop there often. However, two years ago, the taste suddenly dropped for some reason, so I stopped going to the airport branch. This year, I went to the Baikoken in the Asahikawa Ramen Village instead, and the taste was as stable and delicious as ever. I wonder if the airport food court branch has improved since then?
This specific yogurt from North Plain Farm is so delicious. It seems to be available in some supermarkets like Seikyo, so I always buy it whenever I find it during my stay. By the way, “Okoppe” is the name of a town (興部). I wish it were easier to get in Tokyo…
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