When people talk about sightseeing spots in Higashikawa Town, including hot springs, Asahidake usually comes to mind first. But personally, I really want to recommend Tenninkyo! It’s a place where you can see the elegant and beautiful Hagoromo Falls, amazing columnar jointing, and the onsen (hot springs) are fantastic too. Until 2018, there was a charming hotel called Tenninkaku, but unfortunately, it closed down. Still, there’s Shikishima-so, a wonderful inn with a superb location and amazing hot springs.
On the right side of Prefectural Road 213, which goes from Higashikawa Town through Shibinai to Chubetsu Lake, there’s a spot with some quite thin, vertically layered rocks. I’m not sure if you’d call them columnar joints, but they look like they might peel off if you applied force. It’s interesting how they’re vertical rather than stacked.
The road in this photo is also closed in winter. But even crazier, the road beyond the Chobonai Gate, on the opposite side of Chubetsu Lake from this picture, is called a “phantom road” because it’s only open for about a month each year! I’ve been visiting Higashikawa in various seasons for over 10 years, but I’ve never seen that road open. In addition to the winter closure, there’s a risk of landslides from May to September, so it’s said to only be accessible for about a month, from mid-September to mid-October (the opening period varies by year).
I thought the walkway from Tenninkyo Onsen to Hagoromo Falls wouldn’t be too long, and I could manage it with some basic gear. Unfortunately, due to avalanche risk, it’s closed from October to June. The bridge leading to the walkway itself was completely buried in snow, making it risky to cross even on foot, let alone by car. Tenninkaku hotel used to be right past this bridge, but it’s been completely removed, which makes the area feel a bit lonely.
Tenninkyo also serves as the descent point from the Tomuraushi side when traversing the Daisetsuzan mountain range. Recently, brown bears have been frequently sighted around the Hakuun-dake refuge hut, so I haven’t quite mustered the courage to try the full traverse yet. But it’s definitely a place I’d love to challenge myself with if the opportunity arises!
Tenninkyo is home to unique rock formations, like “Shichifuku-iwa” (Seven Lucky Gods Rocks), where seven columnar joints stand side by side. In winter, you can enjoy a unique, ink-wash painting-like landscape, just like in this photo, and in autumn, it’s a stunning spot for fall foliage.
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