On my way back from climbing Mt. Ontake, I spotted a sign for “Atera Valley.” For some reason, the name stuck with me, so when I extended my trip to Narai-juku and Matsumoto this time, I thought it would be a shame not to stop by. That’s because the photos I found during my research showed such incredibly clear, emerald-green valley beauty that I was instantly captivated.
That day, I traveled by train instead of car and got off at Nojiri Station, the nearest stop. I had researched beforehand and thought I could rent an eBike, but there was nothing at the station. I was halfway ready to give up and walk when I found a rental spot at the parking lot near the gorge entrance. The gorge is about 6 kilometers long, and while walking both ways would have been nice, I opted for the eBike for an easier ride.
What’s truly amazing is that you can see the clear, emerald-green water, often called “Atera Blue,” right from the gorge entrance. There was no one there when I arrived, but when I came back, many people were happily playing in the water.
Atera Valley has several “fuchi” (deep pools of water) scattered throughout. The first ones you encounter when heading up from the entrance are Kitsunegafuchi and Tanukigafuchi. The story goes that in ancient times, foxes and tanuki, known for their shapeshifting abilities, would check their transformed appearances in these beautiful waters, hence the names. I saw people swimming there, and they looked absolutely blissful.
From what I saw, this pool held the deepest green color in the entire gorge. They say it’s called Inugaeri-no-Fuchi (Dog’s Return Pool) because hunting dogs, seeing the sheer cliffs around here, would turn back from the hunt.
While you can generally enjoy the stunning beauty of Atera Valley from the paved “Sapphire Road” along the Atera River, some spots can only be reached by walking along mountain trails.
Unarijima (Roaring Island) offered a view so beautiful it made me sigh. It’s a spot you can only reach by walking a bit along a mountain path, and I felt it’s an absolute must-see if you come to Atera Valley. The sheer beauty and tranquility were so overwhelming that I couldn’t move from the spot for a while.
The 6-kilometer Atera Valley is home to numerous pools, each incredibly beautiful, making you wonder how they get such vibrant colors. I’ve seen beautiful pools like this before, at Suisho-fuchi in Yasui Gorge in Kochi, but this was my first time encountering a gorge where such beauty stretches for such a long distance.
And at the very end of the gorge, there was Bigansui (Beauty Water) springing forth. Even though I took it easy with the eBike, the uphill climb was still a bit warm, so that cold, delicious water was a real lifesaver.
I’m sure the contrast between this gorgeous Atera Blue and the reds and yellows of the autumn leaves must be absolutely stunning during fall foliage season. If I get the chance, I’d definitely love to visit again!
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